Review: La Croix des Célestins, Jean Desvinges, Brouilly 2020

Brouilly lidl wine review

The Beaujolais Cru have gained popularity in recent decades. After Beaujolais Nouveau reached peak excitement in 1999 (with its highest sales to date), the fading trend made way for other stand-out Beaujolais wines to take centre stage. Enter, our Beaujolas Crus. 

Today, via osmosis, sheer will and a great glass of wine, we metaphorically visit Brouilly, France (one of the largest crus in Beaujolais – only on par with Morgon AOC) to taste a gorgeous wine. 

This afternoon’s treat comes from Lidl in north London, where I’ve managed to pick up one of the last bottles (already a good sign) of La Croix des Celestins by Jean Desvignes. 

Rising up over Brouilly AOC, this region takes its name from the dominant Mount Brouilly; a 1,588 ft (584 m) mountain that is one of the highest in the region. Brouilly is the southerly cru – with a warm mediterranean climate and enviable sun exposure. 

Sipping away, the special volcanic diorite soil immediately characterises this wine with a potent spiciness. This combined with the more tannic (I would say almost medium +) profile, gives the impression of cracked black pepper wedged in between one’s teeth. Which perhaps counterintuitively, is rather delightful. 

There’s the usual host of red fruits typical of the Gamay grape, with light raspberry, strawberry and cranberry aromas – both of the nose and palette. There’s absolutely a floral presence here too – with sprinklings of violet at the forefront on both smell and sip. 

With a lovely finish, this wine is particularly delicious – especially once you factor in that it only cost £7.99. As both a pleasant weeknight drinker, I wouldn’t be remiss to crack this open at a dinner party either. 

When it comes to considering what you’d pair this wine with, I would move away from the whiter meats (such as Turkey – which has come to be synonymous with Beaujolais). A spiced moroccan lamb would pair well – especially something that emphasises cinnamon, black pepper or ground ginger. In general, food to pair with beaujolais cru can be as simple as a charcuterie board (think sliced jambon and comte). 

Either way, this wine is a winner. For the price, you couldn’t really go wrong! You’ve done it again Lidl.

Buy from: Lidl (£7.99)

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