How to spend an afternoon in Borolo
Borolo; the belle of Piedmont
The undulating hills of Borolo in the late summer sun are a wine-lovers dream. The lesser known, but equally as impressive, ‘other’ major Italian wine region to Tuscany boasts the same charm with a totally unique style of wine.
Funnily enough, while the Borolo region (located in Piedmont, Northern Italy) is oft associated with Tuscany, they have little in common bar the stunning landscape and country in which they are situated. Borolo is better compared with Burgundy in this respect as it promotes a singular, notoriously tricky to grow grape… Nebbiolo! (Much like Burgundy’s Pinot Noire in this respect.)
Nebbiolo is Borolo’s (and its sister region, Barbaresco’s) signature grape. Nebbiolo is cultivated more in this region than any other region in the world – and yet, only 14% of the region’s vines are dedicated to its growth. That should explain why it is so revered, and also, so expensive!
Understanding Nebbiolo - the signature grape
Nebbiolo is one of the most difficult grapes to grow and as a result, demands a premium price. Nebbiolo is deceptively pale (similar to Pinot Noir) however is incredibly high in tannin and full-bodied.
On the nose, Nebbiolo is consistently referred to as “tar and roses”. This is due to the almost resin-like ‘tar’ note that is instantly detectable, and similarly, the overpowering and rather lovely floral scents of rose (and violent).
Dating as far back as the 13th century, the word “nebbia” means fog. This refers to the powdery surface that appears on the grape during harvest and also the weather conditions of the valley floor.
The must-visit winery; Rocche dei Manzoni
Without a doubt, the best kept secret in Borolo’s wine scene is Rocche dei Manzoni. Nestled in the heart of Italy’s Piedmont region, Rocche dei Manzoni stands as a beacon of excellence in winemaking. This renowned estate, with its deep-rooted history and forward-thinking approach, has consistently produced wines that capture the essence of the Langhe terroir.
Our Italian companion on the trip kept asserting to the Rocche dei Manzoni as having a “unique surprise”. Despite my belligerent whining for him to detail exactly what surprise this was, he didn’t let up… and I was glad he didn’t.
While the winery itself sits a top the gorgeous, undulating hilltops just south of the Borolo town and in that respect, is one of the most beautiful vineyards I’ve ever visited. The family-run vineyard is impeccable from top to bottom and the patriarch, Valentino Magliorini, was not only an experimental winemaker but a visionary. For he built a gorgeous domed cellar beneath the main house which is a breath-taking shrine to rival the Sistine Chapel. A truly unique surprise indeed.
Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo “Vigna d’la Roul”
This single-vineyard Barolo epitomizes the estate’s dedication to expressing the unique characteristics of the terroir. With its elegant structure and layered complexity, it’s a testament to the aging potential of Rocche dei Manzoni’s wines.
Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo “Big ‘d Big”
A great expression of a blend from various vineyards belonging to Podere Rocche dei Manzoni, all located in Monforte d’Alba. The 2018 was particularly promising.
Eat here: Trattoria TerraLuna
Piedmont, known as the gastronomic heart of Italy, offers a culinary experience like no other. This region boasts a rich tapestry of flavours and traditions that have earned it a place on every food lover’s map. Piedmont’s cuisine is a celebration of simplicity and the highest quality ingredients. Indulge in the earthy delights of truffles, revel in the velvety elegance of Barolo wine, and savour the buttery richness of Agnolotti pasta. From the fertile hills to the bustling markets, every corner of Piedmont tells a story through its food.
Needless to say, picking the right restaurant here is near impossible considering the plethora of options. But fortunately our Italian guide made that all the easier by recommending the mind-blowing Trattoria TerraLuna. Nestled in between the stunning hillsides, this restaurant boasts a plethora of exciting local dishes with 5-star service.
The dish to try: Gnochetti in creamy Castelmagno
FAQs
When is the best time to visit the Borolo region?
The best time to visit the Barolo region is during the grape harvest season, which typically occurs from late September to early October. However, spring and early summer also offer beautiful weather and lush vineyard landscapes.
How do I get to Barolo from major cities like Turin or Milan?
Barolo is easily accessible by car from Turin, Milan, and nearby cities. Alternatively, you can take a train to Alba and then arrange for transportation to Barolo, which is only a short drive away. However, it’s highly advisable to rent a car to make driving between the vineyards and the local towns
Is a trip to Borolo expensive?
It doesn’t have to be! Fortunately, Borolo can be done relatively on the cheap – especially if you know the vineyards to visit. Borolo is populated with more than 20 vineyards – and paired with Barbaresco there is plenty of opportunities to find a bargain tasting! You should expect to pay approximately between €30 – 60 per tasting,