Zinfandel/Primitivo; the bold grape
“Wine is constant proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” – Benjamin Franklin
The basics
Zinfandel (or Primitivo) is a black grape variety that is known as Zinfandel in English-speaking countries and Primitivo in Italy. While the grape actually originates from neither the US or Italy (it’s actually originally from Croatia), it has become a major grape variety in both of these countries.
In terms of structure, Zinfandel (or Primitivo) produces both bold, high-alcohol wines, with prominent black fruit flavours (plum, blackberry). As well as significant secondary oak flavours. However, Zinfandel is also the key grape in the rosé wine, White Zinfandel, produced in California, where it is known for medium-sweet wines with almost overwhelming red fruit and candy flavours.
A grape of varying ripeness
Zinfandel (or Primitivo) has an almost raisin-quality to the wines – making dried fruit aromas prominent on the nose. This is because Zinfandel grapes don’t ripen evenly on the bunch, meaning some grapes are nearly raisin by the time of harvest. The wines generally have a higher sugar level and throughout the fermentation process there is more sugar for the yeast to convert to alcohol – causing very full-bodied, boozy wines. Most Zinfandels (or Primitivos) hover around the 15.5% ABV mark.
Where does Zinfandel (Primitivo) grow?
Zinfandel (Primitivo) needs a warm climate to grow and for the thick-skinned grapes to ripen. While the majority of Zinfandel (Primitivo) is grown in the USA (California, specifically), or Italy (Puglia) – there are some plantings of the grape in its origin-country, Croatia, and Australia too.
Famed for having some of the oldest vine plantings in the USA, with certain areas such as Lodi producing exceptional quality Zinfandel wines from vines more than 50 years old. The older the vine, the more concentrated in flavour the fruit – these wines have rich black fruit and dried raisin aromas.
Which countries produce Zinfandel/Primitivo?
California, USA
Lodi
Napa Valley AVA
Dry Creek Valley AVA
Paso Robles AVA
Amador
California has a reputation for producing two vastly different types of Zinfandel. The first is White Zinfandel; this is a rosé wine made for the Zinfandel grape. It undergoes a short maceration period where the skins are left in contact with the fermenting wine for only a few hours. Then the yeast is removed from the wine before fermentation has finished. Created in this process is a sweet, low-alcohol wine, known as White Zinfandel.
White Zinfandel doesn’t have a reputation for quality, but in the last few years the red wines made from California have risen in notoriety. Red Zinfandels are bold, boozy (high-alcohol) wines – often exceeding 15% ABV. They have rich black fruit flavours – think sweet black plums and blackberries. The wines age in new oak to soften their tannins and provide secondary characteristics of vanilla and tobacco (as well as a mocha quality). Many wines will exhibit a raisin, or dried fruit, flavour, from the bunch ripening unevenly. This balances well with their high alcohol.
Italy
Puglia
Primitivos from Puglia where overlooked for years. Said to be lacking quality as they were, and still are, often overproduced – focusing on high yields and commercial viability rather than quality. However, Puglian Primitivos are becoming a marker of quality as certain winemakers concentrate yields and prioritise flavour. Primitivos from Puglia represents as excellent and delicious bargain wine!
Food pairings for Zinfandel/Primitivo
Bold. Boozy. Alcoholic. Zinfandel (Primitivo) must pair with something equally ready to embrace its bold flavours. Think rich winter stews, sultry summer BBQs and even a meaty curry might do the trick.
Steak
We all know Californian reds pair with steaks perfectly, and while Cabernet Sauvignon is a go-to option, most people overlook Cabernet’s equally delicious cousin, Zinfandel. Zinfandel’s full-body, medium-full tannins and black fruit flavour will pair perfectly with a great cut of steak.
Pair with: A Californian Zinfandel; try an old vine wine from Lodi.
BBQ Meats
Red wines to pair with a BBQ can often be stuck between the lighter Pinot Noir styles and the heavier, but highly tannic Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon blends. Primitivo is perfectly poised to accompany the wide range of meats served at a BBQ and its fruity flavour and medium tannins offer enough refreshment between bites to feel smooth and delicious.
Pair with: An Italian Primitivo – ideally one with slightly less alcohol (under 15%) and lots of fruit flavours.
Curry with a hint of spice
You what, mate? Red wine and curry – are you joking? Well in this instance, no I am not. Rather than jumping straight for an Indian curry, I would recommend something with a Japanese origin – such as pork or chicken Katsu curry. As the grape is slightly sweet but fruity and full, it pairs well with the delicate pork or chicken Katsu curry, standing up to the balance of sweet and savoury.
Pair with: A slightly sweeter Primitivo or Zinfandel, ideally from the warmest sites, such as Calistoga.