Merlot; the classic grape
“I cook with wine, sometimes I even add it to the food.” – W.C. Fields
The basics
Merlot is a black grape variety that has been immortalised by its popularity and versatility. The grape can be grown in moderate and warm climates and is a well-known grape amongst novices and seasoned wine lovers. Merlot puts the ‘m’ in most aspects of its character. Its body is medium. Similarly, tannins and acidity are classed as medium too.
Merlot grapes are harvested according to ripeness levels, which causes the wines flavour to vary. For example, in moderate climates where the grapes may struggle to ripen, the body is slightly lighter and the flavours are more fresh – dominated by strawberry and raspberry, as well as a noticeable green pepper tinge. The riper the grape, the riper the fruit flavours. The body becomes heavier in these wines, as they exhibit ripe blackberry and plum flavours, and the acidity begins to level out on the palette.
What's the deal with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon?
Some pairings in life are infamous; salt and pepper, yin and yang… Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Just like a married couple, they work together to complement and contrast. Both grown notably throughout the Bordeaux region (see below). Merlot is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon here and all over the world (known as the ‘Bordeaux Blend’).
Merlot brings acidity, freshness and importantly, tempers the high tannin levels found in Cabernet Sauvignon meaning that it can be drunk earlier. Similarly, the red fruit flavours work to balance out the ripe, stewed black fruit flavours that often present in a Cabernet Sauvignon.
Importantly, Cabernet Sauvignon usually needs the warmest possible vintages to ripen. This means that in Bordeaux’s cooler years, more Merlot is added to the blend to ensure that enough wine is made to be commercially viable.
Which countries produce Merlot?
Bordeaux, France
Pomerol AOC
Saint-Émilion AOC
Bordeaux AOC
Bordeaux Supérieur AOC
The Bordeaux region seperates into three key areas (left bank, Entre-Deux-Mers, right bank); partitioned by the two main rivers that flow either side (the Garonne and the Dordogne). Merlot is grown throughout the entire Bordeaux region and is one of France‘s most popular grapes, but dominates the blends on the right bank.
Above all, french oak barrels characterise these flavours and influence the secondary characteristics of the wine – notably the soft cedar and tobacco. The fruits are more balanced (although predominantly composed of blackberry) from blending with Cabernet Sauvignon.
California, USA
Napa
Monterey
Sonoma
Firstly, don’t let the hit movie, Sideways, trick you into disliking Merlot. Infamously, the rant delivered by Paul Giamatti’s character classed Merlot is rubbish. This caused Merlot sales to plummet after the film’s release. However, Merlot from California is incredibly complex, offering a silky, velvety mouthfeel and rich black fruit flavours (black cherry). The grape enjoys California’s warm climate and is grown throughout the main wine growing regions. Some inland grape growing areas produce inexpensive, average wines at low prices.
Australia
Barossa Valley
McLaren Vale
Margaret River
Australia’s Margaret River exports premium wines to all over the world, but it’s especially capitalised on its Bordeaux blends, made from a mix of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (sometimes with Cabernet Franc too). As a result, these wines are high quality and the warmer climate usually always guarantees ripening.
New Zealand
Hawke's Bay
Marlborough
Martinborough
Hawke’s Bay has significant plantings of Merlot. Cooled by rainfall, the climate elongates the ripening season meaning winemaker’s have more options to choose when they want to harvest. As a result, wines from this region can come in all styles – from light and fruity to full bodied.
South Africa
Stellenbosch
Paarl
Merlot is the third most planted black grape variety in South Africa (making up nearly 15 per cent of total plantings). It can vary in style depending on the regional plantings and tends to have aromas of chocolate, velvet and smoke.
Chile
Colchagua Province
Maipo Valley
Casablanca Valley
Similarly, Chile grows a range of quality and inexpensive merlot. The warmer inland areas of the Central Valley produce high yields of wine, due to the grape’s reliable ability to ripen. The wines have a tempered capsicum flavour and softer, red fruit aromas.
Food pairings for Merlot
Merlot is produced in many forms – from immediately drinkable, ‘weeknight wines’ to a far more complex, rich blended variety (notably Bordeaux blends). As a result, there is a place for Merlot on every table, if you can just find the perfect pairing…
Red pasta dishes
Merlot makes a gorgeous pairing for red sauces – while not necessarily a classic Italian varietal, Merlot’s well balanced cherry flavours and relaxed oak aromas can stand up well to the tomato’s acidity and any red meat (such as Bolognese) that may accompany it.
Pair with: Merlot from Chile or New Zealand (single varietal/unblended)
Roast pork
Roast pork is a fantastic accompaniment to well-balanced merlots, those that sit on the precipice between red and black fruits, between medium and full bodied. For instance, pork’s lighter style of meat (compared to beef) pairs well with Merlot’s that often come from warmer climates that are still unblended.
Pair with: A Merlot from California, or Paarl
Beef wellington
You can’t go wrong by pairing a Merlot with a beef wellington, or to be honest, any beef dish (that isn’t steak). Beef wellington, and any similar dishes, such as a beef stew, go brilliantly with a Bordeaux blend. Firstly, the fruit and medium acidity from the Merlot paired with the tannic mouthfeel from the Cabernet Sauvignon will provide a delicious accompaniment to the meal. Secondly, “what grows together, goes together” and the French and Australian beef markets are as booming as its wine industries.
Pair with: A Bordeaux blend from the right bank, or a wine from the Margaret River